Well, turns out Ireland is all it’s supposed to be.
I did a little solo trip there 2 weekends ago and it was just about the best of the best. I went to Dublin and Galway, and took day trips to the Cliffs of Moher and Aran Islands. With all the alone time I did plenty of observing and over-the-top, Anne of Green Gables/Jo March style writing. But lucky for you I also love making lists. As much as I’m sure you wish I would, I’ll hold back from going totally late-19th/early-20th century female on you and will give you for the most part the list portion of my notebook contents.
I started off my trip with my usual travel to-do list. These are usually made while waiting to board planes. This one was no exception. I stuck in my lil’ old headphones, started my Ireland playlist, and made myself a lil’ Ireland To-Do List.
Ireland To-Do List
(These list items are exactly as they appear in my notebook, Go ahead and judge me.)
- Lay in REAL GRASS
Check. I can’t explain how homey the smell of grass is. I didn’t realize it till I smelled it again, but that fresh, cool smell is just home. It’s been a while since I’ve seen more than questionable city patches of grass so I was practically ready to eat the stuff.
- Read William Blake somewhere outdoors.
No check. I want to say check so badly but couldn’t find a darn bookstore that had even the tiniest volume of William Blake. First and only strike for Ireland.
- Cliffs of Moher + Atlantic Ocean Breeze + Hair down
Yeah whatever you would have wanted your hair to blow over cliffs too so don’t even try to judge me. I spent most of my time at the Cliffs walking and had to rush back to catch my bus before writing much. But here is what I did write:”I am sitting in the deepest, brightest green grass with little tufts of heather all around me. I’ve been all alone for the last few kilometers and could have stepped back 400 years for all I know. Three feet in front and 700 feet down is a dark blue Atlantic ocean crashing white against mossy, jagged, grey cliff walls. Thirty feet behind me is a thin wire fence separating me from some giant Irish cows. Pretty sure one could eat me.
Soft green, long-since tamed farmland rolls into far-off gentle mountains-a sharp contrast to the wildness it faces in the Atlantic.
The sky is a pale blue spotted with cotton-candy fluff clouds. Sunshine is bouncing off the Irish green all around.I love it here. I love having nothing but air and ocean. I love friendly faces. I love speaking at the same speed as my brain is working. I love black coffee…Dear Cliffs of Moher, you are a wonder of scale and contrast and I love you.”
- Make Irish friends
So in my head Hannah making friends with Irish people pretty clearly translated to this specific scene from PS I Love You. In a classic turn of events however, 100% of the 3 local phone numbers I collected that weekend were from Irish grandmothers. That’s cool though…I mean I wanted that actually and who cares about Irish men and their perfect accents anyways!? NOT ME. So here’s a picture of me with a cow because at least he liked me.
Not really sure what I meant when I wrote this. Maybe I wanted to go digging for potatoes? No wait actually who am I kidding? I totally just wanted to eat potatoes. And did I ever! I ate mashed potatoes with everything.
Check Check CHECK.
Guinness is Ireland. Ireland is Guinness.
Hannah loves Guinness therefore Hannah loves Ireland. And vice versa.
Word on the street has it that Irish Doctors prescribe this stuff to patients. I saw multiple bars with advertisements in the windows touting the strength-building benefits of Guinness. So it’s healthy? I guess?
I walked into the Cheesemonger in Galway and after staring at all the wax coated wheels of heaven for about 10 minutes finally asked Charlie the Cheesemonger to give me his strongest Irish cheese. This, my friends, was a fantastic decision on my part. He directed me to the bakery just around the corner where I obviously RAN in order to buy a whole wheat scone which would become the conduit to my precious cheese. I went on to pound my 2-part culinary masterpiece while listening to live music on a Galway corner. Afterwards I had to shake the equivalent of a half scone of crumbs out of my scarf. That moment could be considered both a high and low point for me.
- Hike Connemara
Instead I ended up going to the Aran Islands. I boarded a ferry in the morning and obviously I got off at the wrong island. But it urns out that this was one of my best travel mistakes to date. I ended up on Inis Meain island inhabited by 160 Irish-speaking inhabitants (fun fact-Irish is a separate language from Gaelic. It’s totally different and THE most beautiful). The island is a patchwork of ancient stone walls. The entirety of the island is divided into square patches no bigger than 40×50 feet. How you get between and to some of the center ones I have absolutely no idea.
On Inis Meian I met a little old lady who served a new friend and I tea in a garden and she described the island best. “You step off the ferry onto the island and you feel like you found a new old world. And one you’re on the ferry back to the mainland it all feels like a strange dream.” There’s nothing better than that to be said about this little bit of earth.
- Live Music in Pub
Check. Turns out this was every pub always. Music was everywhere.
- Watch rugby match
Check. Ireland v. France. The Irish won. And thank heavens they did because I am entirely convinced I would have lost my life to some brawling Irish man with a 10 pound glass Guinness stein.
- Cream Tea and Scones
Check. So if I drank tea with whole fat milk constantly in the hostel (because it was FREE) that counts, right?
- Trinity College Library
I love books and I love the smell of books. Therefore, I love libraries. This place has been on my bucket list ever since I started reading lists of “the world’s most beautiful libraries”-and I started reading those lists a long time ago.
- Irish soda bread
This stuff is like putting a brick in your stomach. And I mean that in the most complimentary sense. I’d eat this bread every morning if I could.
- Black pudding
No check. Honestly wasn’t too jazzed about checking this one off anyway considering Wikipedia defines these as “Sausages filled with blood that are cooked or dried and mixed with a filler until they are thick enough to congeal when cooled.” Terrifying.
- Buy yarn. The real stuff.
No check. BUT I found the real stuff and wanted to buy it. But obviously they don’t even have a single ATM or credit card machine on Inis Meian, so it wasn’t happening.